Mfpen's New Balance 991v1 Drop Uses Surplus Leathers

The mfpen x New Balance Made in UK 991v1 'Surplus Leathers' launches on September 3. This limited collaboration will produce only 90 pairs, using leftover materials from New Balance's Flimby factory.

Sigurd Bank, founder of mfpen, gave Hypebeast exclusive details on the project. He explained the deep connection between the brands, noting he styled his first collections with his own worn-in New Balance sneakers. The classic, understated look of the 99 series felt like a natural fit for a partnership.

Sourcing from Surplus

The collaboration is built on a foundation of upcycled materials. Bank visited the New Balance factory in Flimby, England, to sort through old stocks of leathers and materials. These materials were available in varying, limited quantities, which directly dictated the extremely small production run. "All upper materials are surplus from past production," Bank stated. The sneaker's upper combines tumbled nubuck, pigsuede, and mesh to achieve a deliberately lived-in feel.

This approach aligns with mfpen's longstanding production philosophy. The brand has consistently centered its work on deadstock, surplus, and upcycled fabrics, aiming to consciously mitigate overproduction.

A Subtle, Handcrafted Logo

A key design feature is the treatment of the classic New Balance 'N' logo. The collaborative model tones it down with a debossed finish, lending a minimalist sensibility. "Personally, I have a hard time with logos, and I think toning down the N is a simple way to mess with the silhouette while still keeping that recognizable New Balance reference," Bank shared.

While the subtle logo feels contemporary, it is actually pulled from the New Balance archives. Applying this archival detail to the nubuck presented a unique challenge. After several trials, the factory perfected the technique, but each emboss had to be done by hand. Bank appreciated this process, noting it made each pair feel uniquely connected to the factory and its history.

Release Details and Future Models

The sneaker will be available through a very limited drop. The full release details are as follows:

This 991v1 unveiling follows the recent preview of another collaborative model. Weeks earlier, at its SS27 Copenhagen Fashion Week runway show, mfpen previewed a New Balance 992. That model takes a more stripped-back approach, featuring a shadow of an 'N' logo that appears torn off. An official release date for the 992 has not been announced.

The mfpen x New Balance 991v1 represents the first-ever collaboration between the two brands. It merges New Balance's Flimby factory heritage with mfpen's minimalist and sustainable design ethos for a highly exclusive release.