HYKE Launches First Menswear Line for SS27
Japanese label HYKE has debuted its first dedicated menswear collection during Tokyo Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2027, expanding its military-inspired
Cult Japanese label HYKE has launched its first dedicated menswear line. The collection debuted as part of the brand's Spring/Summer 2027 presentation during Tokyo Fashion Week, according to a report from Highsnobiety.
HYKE, founded in 2013 by husband-and-wife designers Hideaki Yoshihara and Yukiko Ode, has built a reputation over 13 years for its military-inspired and utilitarian womenswear. The new menswear offering is designed separately but shares the same thematic core as the women's line. It marks the brand's full entry into a menswear market currently populated by labels like a.Presse, ssstein, and Auralee.
The Debut Collection
The debut collection features a range of garments that translate HYKE's signature aesthetic for men. Key pieces include boxy jackets, lightweight shirting, and flowing pants. The trouser designs take direct inspiration from the US Army's M-51 Arctic Trousers. This military reference is consistent with the brand's longstanding obsession with vintage workwear and military gear, which it typically reinterprets using technical fabrics like GORE-TEX, Pertex, and sturdy wool.
A Slow and Steady Expansion
The move into menswear represents a logical, if long-awaited, expansion for the brand. Co-founder Yukiko Ode told Highsnobiety in 2024 that HYKE began partly as a project to reshape military wear into womenswear. "I never liked dressing very feminine," she said, "so I would end up wearing men's clothes a lot." The designers have operated on a 'slow and steady' philosophy, quietly perfecting their formula over a decade before applying it to a dedicated men's line.
Brand Collaborations and Context
HYKE's expertise has previously attracted major collaborative partners. The label has an on-off partnership with The North Face Japan, producing genderless, survival-ready collections. It has also linked up with other brands like Mackintosh and adidas in the past. These collaborations, along with a loyal domestic following, established a foundation that now supports the new menswear venture. The report suggests the brand's decade of experience in refining its specific aesthetic could help it stand out in a crowded field of labels exploring similar relaxed, military-inflected silhouettes.
The report concludes that this debut acts as a full-circle moment for the brand, proving that a new design perspective can stem from reconsidering what you already love.
