Comme des Garçons A/W26 Show Details

Rei Kawakubo presented the Comme des Garçons Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, titled 'Ultimately Black', on August 27, 2026. The show, described as a masterclass, featured 20 predominantly black looks punctuated by six in bright, bubblegum pink.

The collection was revealed in a rare interview with the designer, published in the autumn 2026 issue of Dazed magazine. The issue goes on sale internationally from September 10. Kawakubo explained the collection's focus, stating, "This collection was born from the realisation that once again, when all is said and done, black is an essential colour for my artistic expression, because black is the colour of resistance, of justice and of independence."

The A/W26 'Ultimately Black' Collection

The show had a funereal quality, likened to a take on Victorian mourning dress. Garments incorporated corsets, crinolines, bustles, lace, tulle, velvet, and silk. Fabric was manipulated extensively, described as being like paint in the hands of an old master. It ballooned and cocooned the body, was coiled with ruches and ruffles, pleated and patched, balled into giant knots, and blown out to extreme, abstracted proportions.

Kawakubo clarified the role of the pink looks interspersed among the black. "The pink in this collection has no particular meaning," she said. "It exists solely to enhance or reinforce the black, like a spice." A colleague of the interviewer was moved to tears by the presentation.

Kawakubo's Philosophy and Process

When asked if she consciously tries to evoke emotion, Kawakubo's response was characteristically enigmatic. "There is no specific purpose, it is not always 'for something'," she stated. "I seek something new, but what the result brings about is something I do not know." She also dismissed the centrality of the body, noting, "The relationship between clothing and the body is not the theme."

Reflecting on fashion's role in dark times, she offered a succinct view. "I believe the role of fashion is that, by expressing oneself through what one wears, one's spirits are lifted, in other words, it has a positive effect."

On AI and Advice for Designers

The designer was also asked about the role of artificial intelligence in creativity. She presented a stark contrast between human and machine. "If there are 100 people, all 100 will be different," Kawakubo observed. "In the case of AI, all 100 would more than likely give almost the same answer."

Her advice for young designers starting out was simple and direct. "To the younger generation: just keep going, keep going," she said. The source story includes anecdotes that illustrate Kawakubo's longstanding reputation. Stylist and accessories designer Judy Blame recalled being commissioned for the S/S05 collection, receiving the only instruction that pieces should be 'pink and gold'.

Another recounted story involves a journalist asking Kawakubo what she was thinking about when designing a collection. The designer reportedly responded by drawing a circle on a piece of paper and then walking away, an answer described as saying nothing, and everything. Comme des Garçons shows are noted for their absence of celebrities, influencers, famous models, runway cameos, surprise performances, and superfluous set design. They typically feature a straight catwalk in a sparsely decorated room.