Saint Laurent SS27 Gold Collection Marks Vaccarello's Decade
Anthony Vaccarello presented Saint Laurent's all-gold SS27 collection in Paris. The show, attended by major celebrities, featured opulent materials and iconic house silhouettes.
Saint Laurent’s Women’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection was an uncompromising ode to gold. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello staged the show at the Trocadéro beneath the illuminated Eiffel Tower during Paris Fashion Week, centering the entire presentation on the metallic hue. The collection transformed iconic Saint Laurent archetypes like saharienne jackets, trenches, and wrap skirts through materials ranging from liquid lamé and burnished satin to gold-leaf-coated latex and metallic leather.
Key items included safari silhouettes and aviator-inspired jackets. There were billowing organza gowns and velvet jackets fastened with big gold buttons. Disco-worthy lamé and latex pieces were coated in gold leaf for a bejeweled effect. Guipure lace and brocades were drenched in gold. Details like crinkled textures, oversize jackets worn open, hulking chandelier earrings, and bejeweled turbans completed the look. The palette spanned from yellowy 24K to deeper, antique pigments. The show notes cited a quote from Yves Saint Laurent himself: "I love gold; it’s a magical color. When reflecting a woman, it’s the color of the sun."
Creative Vision and Legacy
The SS27 show served as a celebration of Anthony Vaccarello’s 10-year tenure at the house. Vaccarello, who has led Saint Laurent since 2016, presented the collection as a new era of opulence. The show notes contained wistful language that fueled industry rumors about his potential departure. An intimate moment where Vaccarello handed a key to a young boy in the audience further sparked speculation. The house has not announced any change regarding his position, and Vaccarello has given no public indication of leaving.
Celebrity and Industry Presence
The gold-themed debut drew a high-profile front row. Attendees included Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Post Malone, and Rosé. Fellow designers Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli were also present to witness the collection.
Broader Fashion Landscape
Beyond the Saint Laurent show, the season featured significant retail expansions and collaborations. Nike and SKIMS opened their first physical destination in China with a pop-up at HKRI Taikoo Hui in Shanghai. Co-founder Kim Kardashian hosted an early preview ahead of its late-September opening. The space, showcasing the NikeSKIMS Fall Edit 01 collection, will remain open through February 2027.
Zara and John Galliano launched their debut 'Re{form}' Vol. 1 collection, a genderless line reconstructing Zara garments with couture techniques. On and Zendaya released their second co-created collection, which included the Cloudnova Moon sneaker in three colorways. Kader Sylla debuted his first signature sneaker, 'The Kader,' with adidas Skateboarding in two suede colorways. Ann Demeulemeester continued its retail expansion, opening a new 150-square-meter flagship in Paris with further locations planned in London, Tokyo, and Shanghai.
The Saint Laurent collection, drawing from 1980s flair and the house's own archives, was described as worthy of Joan Collins-era Dynasty. It presented a definitive statement of Vaccarello's legacy, defined by a singular, opulent aesthetic.
